![]() 9N and 2N tractors only had draft control. The hydraulic 3-point arms have a halfway position between fully “up” and “down”.In contrast, both the 9N and 2N models have a flat rear wheel with a ring of 6 lug nuts further out. The rear wheel is dished, with a large nut in the center surrounded closely by 8 more lug nuts.You are definitely looking at an 8N tractor if: So it’s easiest to see if you have an 8N first, and save the smaller 9N v. So don’t trust the paint job too much.ĩNs and 2Ns are rather similar, but there are some big differences between them and the 8N. Plenty of people are unaware of this, though, and will paint their 9N or 2N red and grey as well. But since it is the first and most obvious clue available, you should know that 9N and 2N tractors were painted all grey, while a red and grey paint job was for 8N tractors. Once the war was over, a new and much improved 8N was introduced in 1948.Īs my hippie tractor will demonstrate, paint color can’t always be counted on. It was followed by the 2N in 1942, and early models were greatly impacted by wartime rationing. While we’ve gone into specific details about the year-to-year improvements in N-series tractors before ( click here), today I’m going to give you a quick “field guide” to determining the model of an N-series tractor.įirst, a quick history lesson: the 9N was introduced in 1939. Problem solved, no paint required!įor a more serious collector, though, being able to identify exactly which of the N-style tractors (9N, 2N, or 8N) you’re looking at is very important. I thought I’d have to repaint it, but before I got around to doing so it was spotted by another customer who just LOVED the paint job. Like the one I bought from an old hippie that was painted bright yellow, with flowers all over the hood. You’ll see them all over – at auction sales and dealerships, but also alongside the road with a “For Sale” sign, at garage sales, and even at your favorite restaurant on date night (true story – as often as we’ve had to go home to get a trailer, we should really learn not to leave home without them!).Īs beloved as factory original N-series tractors are, I’ve seen plenty that are rather… unique. More than fifty years after the last 8N rolled off the assembly line, these tractors are still incredibly popular. Which I suppose is what is happening with a motor wired direct to the plug without any 'can' on the side.Īnd 9 or 10 times full load current sounds like enough to blow house fuses to me (single phase australia 240v ).One of the most popular tractors of all time, the Ford N-series tractor is an American icon. However I was caught by what it said about some induction motors drawing 9 or 10 times the full load current when started DOL ( a techie term I just learned ) (Induction motor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) Couldn't learn enough to solve my problem myself. I did read a bit on Google but found it quite daunting, all that technical stuff about motors, I soon got lost. So the question is: can I replace an old motor with this new one? How should I wire it? Are there any dangers? Unfortunately the old ones don't have any such plate after all these years. The new motor has a plate on the side with all kinds of info. And it only has two wires into the plug, too, which I wonder about. The new motor doesn't have such a can but it is wired up to a plug as though you just plug it right in. The old motor has a 'can' on the side which I'm told helps it in starting up. ![]() I've got a new motor donated by a friend but it is not quite the same as the old motors. But the second one the motor seems okay so far. I've actually got two mixers like that, same type, same type of motors. The mixer is a very old type with a very old electric motor and the motor slows and stops nowadays when it gets hot. I need to replace an electric motor in a concrete mixer and I need some information/advice so's I can do that. Moderator: sorry if this is the wrong area - I couldn't find anything for 'electric motors' - please move it where it belongs if this is wrong. ![]()
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